Meat Club Charcuterie

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Pork Confit Rillettes

A few folks asked about how I made the rillettes that I shared for lunch at our Big Pig Day, and I just happen to have a photo series of the process, so I thought I'd post it. 

The short version is that I pulled four chops from the freezer and put together a salt/spice rub (I think basically using the recipe from the Ruhlman/Polcyn book) and left the chops in the spice cure for about two days in the fridge.  Then, I rendered about 5 lbs of back fat on the stovetop and strained and jarred it.  Then, rinsed the chops, melted the lard, and poured the lard over the chops into a casserole pan, and baked at maybe 250-300 for about 4 hours.  Then, skimmed the yummy garbage off the top, strained the fat and reserved for another event, and started hand shredding the meat, discarding excess fat, gristle, bone, etc.  Then, put the meat in the stand mixer with some excess melted lard, confit juices, and black pepper, and mixed it with the paddle attachment for a minute or more.  Then, jammed it in some canning jars and capped them with more lard.  That's it! 

Turned out pretty well I think, but if I did it again, I'd try to make it a little less salty and would not keep it in the stand mixer as long as I did, so it didn't look so much like cat food!

                   
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Pork_Confit_Rillettes_tag_Jami.zip (3196 KB)

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Filed under  //   confit   Jamie   rillettes  
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Big Pig Day -- More Photos!

Here are some more photos from our excellent Big Pig Day.  For those who could not attend, we spent the morning breaking down the hog for later fabrication in the afternoon into: prosciutto, lardo, tessa (flat pancetta), guanciale, brine cured loin, dry cured lonzino, coppa, fresh garlic sausage, tuscan and genoa salami (and other things I've probably forgotten).  Then, we had a bunch of misc. parts leftover for individual home creativity (ribs, offal, trotters, ears, skin, etc.).  A great day in all.

For all that did attend, please post updates (with photos, insights, and confusion) on the progress of your curing and consumption!

                         
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Big_Pig_Day_--_More_Photos_tag.zip (2960 KB)

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Filed under  //   butchering   curing   Jamie   salumi  
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Rosen Curing Chamber Design

Many folks have asked how I built my mini curing chamber, so I thought I'd post a photo series with brief explanation.  My goal was to keep the price low, keep it self-regulating, avoid cords going in and out of the door, protect the meat from insects/rodents, and incoroporate some air exchange.  In the end, I think I came up with a pretty good design  where the whole thing, including used fridge, was around $100 (maybe a little more).

The pictures should mostly speak for themselves, but here's a short overview that tracks with the pictures:

1) Get mini-fridge on Criagslist (~$50-$80)
2) Drill hole in side with hole saw.
3) Nest section of PVC/plastic piping in the whole and seal with silicone sealant (to keep all the dusty insulation out of the equation and avoid moisture/mold penetrating into the fridge structure/lining).
4) Install cheap dryer vent on inside of fridge to allow air to come in when venting system turns on (see later), but stay shut and keep air/insects/dust/etc. out when venting is off.
5) Install cheap wire mesh screen on outside of hole (opposite dryer vent) to keep insects, rodents/etc. from getting access to fridge interior.
6-12) Install computer fan hooked to dehumidistat (connected in junction box), so that when humidty in chamber reaches desired threshold (e.g., 75%), fan turns on, and blows humid air out of chamber, while sucking in dryer air from air intake (photos 2-5).  Note: air outside chamber is generally dryer than interior due to normal environmental conditions, but I also have a large duhumidifier in the room where the chamber is, to keep ambient humidity down (I already had that to control humidity in my basement, where the chamber is located).  Note that I had ZERO electrical experience prior to doing this, so don't think that wiring the junction box requires great skill -- it was super easy -- just splicing a few wires together.
13) Install dryer vent on exterior of computer fan, so when it's not running, insects/rodents/dust/etc. don't get into chamber.  The wire you see next to the dryer vent is a power cord that exits from the back of the junction box.  I think this is much simpler and cleaner than running power cords through the gasket of your fridge.
14-15) Overivew photos, including remote thermometer-hygrometer, which lets me know conditions in the chamber without opening it (it transmits all the way up to my bedroom).

That's pretty much it! 

Well, there is one dirty little secret that I didn't post a picture of -- when I was cutting the hole for the computer fan, I severed the refrigerant line -- ack!  So, when the temperature gets too high, I throw a frozen water bottle into the chamber to drop it down.  Doing so is just routine now, so not that big a deal (although I lose control, of course, when I go on vacation).

                             
Click here to download:
Rosen_Curing_Chamber_Design_ta.zip (773 KB)

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A Fine Meal

 

I had a few meat-loving friends over for dinner the other night, which provided a great opportunity for lots of charcuterie and related tasty morsels.  The menu:

Charcuterie Platter and Cheeses (inlcuding housemade: duck breast prosciutto, trifecta poultry liver pate with currants and dried cherries (i.e., duck, turkey, chicken livers), country pork terrine with pistachios, tuscan salame, and spanish pork rillettes)

Duck Confit, Creamed Parsley, and Duck-Fat-Fried Potatoes with Black Truffles

Linzer Torte with Sara Sloan Peach Preserves

 

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Filed under  //   confit   cooking   Jamie   pate   salumi   terrine  
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Prosciutto Begins!

Peter and I started a prosciutto on Sunday afternoon -- pictures are below.  We started with a 31 lb leg, trimmed it up a bit, carved out the aitch bone (part of the pelvis), lined a giant plastic bin with salt, put the leg in, packed a ton of salt in all gaps in the meat and around the bones, buried the leg in the remainder of the salt (50 lbs total), put about 25 lbs of weight on top of the salted leg, put the lid on, and then left it in Peter's walk-in fridge (around 40 F). 

Peter will flip the leg occaisonally over the next few weeks and give it some loving salt massages, and we expect to pull it out after about 3 weeks in the salt, at which point it will be rinsed and hung to dry for 9 months or a year. 

This is my first prosciutto, so I can't answer too many questions. But, Peter has done a bunch, so if you post questions, I'm sure he can chime in.

I'm not sure I can wait a year to carve into this.....

               
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Proscuitto_Begins_tag_Jamie_pr.zip (1722 KB)

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Tuscan Excellence

Well, the three tuscans are done -- see photo series below. 

I pulled them out of the chamber on Thanksgiving morning, after about a month in the chamber (recall that we made them on October 24).  After the fermentation stage, I kept conditions in the chamber at around 54-58 degrees and humidity around 70-80%.  The mold bloomed pretty nicely and weight loss was around 35%.

After I pulled them from the chamber, I scrubbed off the mold with some salt water solution, then dried them off, and wrapped them in wax paper in the fridge.  You'll see the pre and post scrubbing images below.  You'll also see the spread of sliced salami that my daughter and I quickly gobbled up.  It tasted very good and was much less sour (in a good way) than the first batch that Tim and I made a couple months ago. 

So, who wants some salami?  I was just the custodian for these and I know that several of you wanted salami but did not have sufficient curing conditions.  So, I could probably cut two of the tuscans in half and give to those who want some -- Andy? Robin? Yolanda and Frank?  Others who helped make these?

       
Click here to download:
Tuscan_Excellence_tag_Jamie_tu.zip (1526 KB)

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Weight Loss

In response to Jim's call for weights, I just checked all mine and found that my tuscans have actually lost 32-38% of their weight, so I think it's time to crack one open.

The giant genoa has gone down from 9 lbs, 7 oz to 8 lbs, 2 oz, for a loss of 14%.  Another couple months for that big boy perhaps.

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Incipient Drops of Tuscan Fat

Interesting new development on my tuscans.  A handful of tiny drops of fat on the surface, which were not there two days ago (see photos below, and look closely for the small, gleaming beads of liquid fat). 

I've seen similar weeping fat in prior salami (though much more excessive), but I thought that was due to temperatures that were too high, and perhaps conditions too dry.  But, these have been kept consistently below 60F and at or above 70% RH for the last several weeks.  Anyone know what physically causes this?  I've been reading the very interesting (and detailed) Marianski book (http://www.amazon.com/Art-Making-Fermented-Sausages/dp/1432732579), but haven't gotten to anything on this yet (I'm bogged down in a section on the innumerable variety of bacteria and their properties and functions).  

One interesting thing is that I only see this in spots where there is no mold (though it may be happening in other spots as well but the white mold is just absorbing it as it oozes out, so it's not visible).

         
Click here to download:
Incipient_Drops_of_Tuscan_Fat_.zip (204 KB)

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Rosen Salami Update

Here's the latest from the Rosen Chamber.  Conditions have been holding steady in the mid 50s for temp and 70-80% humidity.  I've been keeping my humidity up a bit more than the Ruhlman/Polcyn book calls for for a few reasons.  First, because the outside of the giant genoa was starting to get dry and it's so big, I want to make sure I don't get case hardening.  Second, I wanted to encourage more mold development.  Third, I just got the Marianski book on fermented sausages and it recommends a humidity range of 70-85%, rather than Ruhlman's lower 60-70%, and I put more stock in Marianski.  One interesting (and disconcerting) thing I found was that my remote humidity sensor generally reads about 7% higher than my base unit for the same conditions.  Who knows which is correct.  I have an analog hygrometer in the mail that I'll add to the mix ($5).

You'll see that all seem to be doing nicely, with plenty of mold on the tuscans and a slow but steady development on the genoa.  I wiped off some blue/green/khaki mold spots yesterday with a water/vinegar mix.  Probably wasn't necessary, but did it anyway.  Also, interesting to see that much of the "white" mold on my tuscans is really off-white tending toward yellow/brown.  I hope that's OK.

I haven't weighed anything yet, but plan to do so soon. 

           
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Rosen_Salami_Update_tag_Jamie_.zip (3020 KB)

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Spouse Versus Salami

My lovely wife, Jeanine, cannot stand the "stench" in our basement.  She wants me to throw all the salami in the garbage.  I tell her that I am THE PRESIDENT OF THE MEAT CLUB and that it is both my duty and passion to carry on these old traditions and craft some tasty morsels in the process.  She pinches her nose and says: "Get rid of them!!!!"

But, of course, I cannot.  I will need to come up with some other solutions.  I'm thinking of setting up some odor barriers in the short term (shower curtains?) and then maybe devise a more involved venting system to the outdoors.  I guess not everyone can appreciate the funky/sour smell of aging raw meat.....

While I've still got my cherished boys (they're really like family now), here's a quick update: the Giant Genoa and the three tuscans are all sharing the curing chamber, which is hovering around 55-60 degrees and 72-76% humidity.  Everything's looking pretty good, especially the tuscans, which are developing an excellent bloom of powdery white mold (see pictures).  The genoa is doing nicely too, but not much mold and the only mold is slightly furry (though it's white and not too furry, so I'm not concerned); I see the beginning of some nice white powdery mold, which is good.  Despite the relatively high humidity in the chamber, I have some concerns about the exterior of the genoa drying out given its massive girth and the fact that the venting fan is often on, which may be passing a dessicating breeze across the genoa.  We'll see.

Next time you see Jeanine, let her know how cool you think she is for curing salami in her basement....

         
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Spouse_Versus_Salami_tag_Jamie.zip (2610 KB)

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Filed under  //   curing   genoa   Jamie   mold   tuscan  
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