Another Great Jamon Party

Despite already having thrown two parties devoted to enjoying our jamon serrano (see: http://www.meatclub.org/fiesta-de-jamon-serrano), and my daughter's and my devoted snacking, I still had the majority of the jamon untouched as of last week.  So, another party, with a lot of people, was required.  And so we had one this past weekend, filled with great food, great friends, and great weather.  Here are a few pictures of before and during the party (with a nice shot of Pepper, perhaps the jamon's greatest booster):

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During the first two parties, we sliced away on the narrower end of the leg, which was drier, less marbled, and perhaps a bit saltier.  For this party, we flipped the leg over and dove into the big, thick, fatty side, and it tasted great.  Still a bit salty, but we had lots of great food a drink to balance it out.  Others who attended can chime in with comments with their own unfiltered opinions.

After everyone left the party, I still had way more meat on the bone than I and my family could consume in the near future.  And, since the leg had already been cut open and at (cool) room temperature for over a month, I decided it was best to cut the remainder off the bone and put the best meat in the fridge for slicing up in upcoming weeks (months?), and save the lesser meat for braises, soups, etc.  Here are a few pictures of the final steps:

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In all, it was fun to make, tasty to eat, and most of all, great fun to share with friends.  Time to get another leg and bury it in salt ....

Fiesta de Jamon Serrano

The prosciutto I've been curing for the last 18+ months rejected its Italian roots and found its true identity as a Spanish Jamon Serrano.  I expect the change was spurred by the fantastic jamon carving stand that Jim fashioned a few weeks ago -- even though Jim blasphemed and called it a prosciutto carving stand (see: http://www.meatclub.org/basic-prosciutto-carving-stand).

Regardless of terminology and nationality, it was clear that a party was in order.  So, I gathered with a handful of food-loving friends and family and we had a great Spanish-themed dinner on Saturday night with jamon, manchego, chorizo, and a fantastic paella (oh, and lots of wine and spanish cider -- see the last photo).  It was a great night.  

Here are a few pictures of the jamon carving in progress.

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Having waited a year-and-a-half to crack into this leg, I was very excited.  But, having never cured a whole leg before, I was also a bit nervous it would be a flop (or worse, filled with maggots).  Remarkably, it was (and is) fantastic.  It's admittedly a little salty and my carving skills are certainly not that of a master, but it tastes great and is ridiculously fun to carve and share with friends.  

It's now sitting on my kitchen counter at home, waiting for friends and neighbors to come by with a bottle of wine or sidra to partake.  Drop by....

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If you want to see a history of this ham/jamon/proscuitto, see:

http://www.meatclub.org/proscuitto-begins

http://www.meatclub.org/prosciutto-teaser

Prosciutto Teaser

It's been about a 18 months since we salted the prosciuitto described at:

http://www.meatclub.org/proscuitto-begins

Peter has been the custodian for the last year-and-a-half, so he'll have to chime in with any relevant details about the curing conditions.  But, as you can see below, the leg looks fantastic.  And, it smells amazing.  It lost around 44% of its weight.

I'll post more pictures and give more details when I cut into it and taste, but that may be a couple weeks, since I'm on my way out of town (and just sprained my ankle, so unable to wield the beastly hunk o' love with my crutches.).  But, I promise, more to come....

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Dried Spanish Chorizo Complete

It's been just over a month since the spanish chorizo went into the curing chamber (see last post).  Based on weight loss, firmness, and taste, I've concluded that they're done (except for the largest one, which I'm going to give another week or two). 

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The pair of sausages in the hog casings (on the left in the first photo) lost 40% of the their weight, as did the smaller sausage in the beef-middle casing (in the center).  The largest one (on the right) lost 36% of its weight and still has a little "squish" to it when I squeeze, so I'm going to let it ride a little longer.  I'm also doing this because having cut open and tasted the small diameter sausages with 40% loss, I've found that they're still plenty moist to cut and in the mouth, so I'm not worried about letting the largest one lose more moisture weight.  Regarding curing chamber conditions, temperature hovered in the mid 50s and humidity started up around 80%+ and ramped down to 65%-70%.

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As for flavor: fantastic!  Very rich, no off-flavors, good bind, and several layers of the various paprikas, garlic, etc.  These will be great on their own with a good beer (or perhaps some Asturian cider....) and also as an ingredient in cooking.  Of course, if Tim gets near, they may disappear quickly.

Spanish Chorizo: Fresh & Cured (and Tasty!!!)

I cranked out two batches of spanish chorizo this weekend -- one cured and one fresh.  Here they both are after stuffing (the batch of small links are the fresh, and the group of two large and one pair are for curing):

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Eager to jump at my wife's suggestion to make a batch of fabada, I took a few of the fresh links, some cured pork belly, and a big smoked hock, and made a very tasty pot of fabada (albeit lacking in the morcilla (blood sausage)).  In honor of Duncan & Elsa and Joaquin & Coro and Aitana:

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And now, just out of the fermentation chamber and into the curing chamber, are the cured chorizo. I decided to inoculate them with the m-600 white mold before going into the fermentation chamber, to foster the growth of the good stuff and avoid the growth of the bad stuff.  Seems like it worked like a charm:

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So far so good!  More later.....

Finocchiona Finale

Below are a couple of pictures of the completed Spicy Finocchiona (to see prior posts, click on tag on sidebar of "finocchiona").  The salami were done curing over a month ago, but I just never got around to posting. 

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In all, these are the best salami I've yet made.  Good taste, good spice, and good texture.  One interesting thing was that I originally pulled them from the curing chamber when the weight loss was around 33-35%.  But, I felt that the one I cut into was still too mushy and unconsolidated, so I let them dry for another few weeks until the total weight lost was around 40%, which I think improved them.  Also, my fat content was a bit too high on these, so next time I'll fix the ratio.  But, in all, a solid success. 

Finocchiona Update

Finocchiona are doing very well in the chamber, having been in for about three weeks. Temp has been 55-60 and humidity at 70-75%.

Below are paired pictures taken about a week ago and yesterday (each pair shows one side of the salumi). You can see the change in the plumpness. Here's one side, before and after (i.e., a week ago and yesterday):

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And here's the other side:

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 I'm also happy with the mold development.  There's a nice bloom of the mold I sprayed on and no visible bad molds. 

Finocchiona Fermented and Drying

Quick upate: the fermentation chamber worked great, with temperatures oscillating around 68-74 degrees (as heater timer cycled on and off -- see comment on last post).  I let the salami ferment for three days at around 85-90% humidity.  

When I pulled them from the chamber, some surficial mold had begun to grow (see first few pictures below).  I wiped that off with a salt water solution, then misted them with the M-600 mold culture from Butcher & Packer (formerly called the M-EK-4 culture), and put them in the curing chamber (see ghostly picture below with my bad camera).  Conditions in the chamber around around 57 degrees and 80% humidity. 

To make space for the salami, I pulled out some pancetta which was in there and let it dry in the ambient conditions in my cellar, which are around 60-64 degrees and around 50-65% RH.  I didn't want to keep them in with the salami, since I want the pancetta at a lower humidity.

A question to all: what are your practices for applying the M-600 mold culture?  Do you apply it before or after the salami goes into the fermentation chamber?  How much powder do you put into solution?  Do you spray it on or dip?  Do you precondition the mold if frozen (e.g., let sit in solution for 12 hours before applying)?  Seem to be mixed practices out there and not much good info on the mold package or Butcher & Packer.

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Spicy Finocchiona Salami

I had a picnic roast on hand from a recent pig order, so decided to make a batch of salami.  I combined a few recipes from the Ruhlman/Polcyn book (their tuscan salami), len poli's site (http://lpoli.50webs.com/index_files/Salami%20finocchiona.pdf) and the Marianski book (their finocchiona), and also added in some hot pepper flakes for extra zing.  

I used the T-SPX slow-fermenting culture (suggested in Marianski, and obtained from Butcher & Packer) rather than the fast-fermenting Bactoferm F-RM-52 (called for in Ruhlman), since the Marianski book places heavy emphasis on the better flavors with the slow fermenting SPX culture.  Having been bit a bit underwhelmed by prior results with the Ruhlman tuscan salami, I'm curious to see how this one goes.  For casings I used beef middles (several sections of which were a bit thin/ragged, and two blew out while stuffing; hopefully more won't fail while hanging).

Another fun endeavor today was inventing and building a fermentation chamber for the salami.  You'll see it in the final photos in the series.  It is basically a clear, upright storage bin, with a dowel mounted across the top, a heating pad hanging inside along one wall, a remote humidity and temperature sensor, and some water poured in the bottom and misted throughout.  So far, it's working great.  The SPX culture is supposed to ferment at 68-75 F for 2-3 days at 85-95% RH.  Right now, I'm getting a reading of 73 F and 90% RH.  I'm just hoping I don't wake up to find it's at 50 or 100 degrees....

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Rosen Bresaola Complete -- and Too Salty!

I wish I could report that that my bresaola, using the Ryan Farr recipe from the upcoming Primal Cuts book, was a smashing success.  Unfortunately, it's not.  It LOOKS fantastic, but I think there's a serious recipe error in the amount of salt called for in the cure.  The result is that the meat is way, way too salty.  

I followed the recipe quite closely (see details on my original July 25 post) and my curing and drying conditions were very good.  But, the end product is just too salty.  I like the underlying other flavors from Ryan's good spice ideas, so am still trying to figure a way to salvage the product.   Perhaps I'll just use a small dice of it in a braise, or maybe very thin slices in a pizza, or maybe even soak some of it in water before using it to cook.  But, can't eat it straight (though I keep trying).

I will note that I was a little surprised when I read the recipe about the amount of salt called for, since Ryan's recipe is quite similar to the Ruhlman/Polcyn bresaola recipe, except that the amount of salt is much higher (and Ryan calls for nitrite rather than nitrate).  Perhaps it's a typo in the recipe.  You might just chalk it up to my personal spazitude, but Jim's try at the same recipe had the same outcome, as I'm sure he'll post. 

Anyway, here are some stats and pictures (though photo quality isn't great).  I put the meat in the chamber on 8/6/10 with a weight of 920 grams and took it out on 9/2/00 with a weight of 655, for a loss of around 30%.  Chamber conditions were stable around 55-60 degrees F and 65-70ish% RH.  The first three photos shown are from 8/20/10, about three weeks into the cure (the other bresaola is Jim's), and the latter photos are from 9/2/10.

If anyone has some brilliant ideas on a good way to use/cook the salty product I have, please leave a comment.

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