Pork Confit

The Meat Club recently received a pig and a side of beef, so my freezer was jammed and I was excited to start making some product.  While packing the freezer, I found two quarts of confit fat from prior adventures, so decided to confit a few pork chops, a fresh ham/leg roast, and some misc. stew meat pieces (about 6 lbs total).  

I used a combination of recipies and ideas from Ruhlman's Charcuterie, Jane Grigson's charcuterie old classic, an old french cookbook of my dad's and various other sources for cross referencing.  The core methods are pretty similar, but some are more strict than others (such as Ruhlman's and Jennifer's Mclagan's Fat cookbook).  So, I hunted around not just for fun, but also for some validation that I really didn't need to cook it at 180-200 degrees for a whole day (or leave the meat curing in the fridge for two days).  I had limited time, so was glad to find multiple sources cutting more slack.

Anyhow, here are a couple of pictures of the meat before and after the rub.

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After around 24 hours (maybe a little less) in the fridge, I rinsed off the rub, dried all the meat well, melted my fat (a mix of mostly lard and then some duck an other poultry fats from prior confit efforts), added the meat, added some more fat for full submersion, and then, after it bubbled a little on the stovetop, stuck in a 275 degree oven.

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After a couple of hours, I gave it light stir and dunked some of the pieces that were exposed.  Then, at around three and a half hours, I took it the dutch oven out, skimmed the top, pulled the hunks of meat out of their delicious bath, and put them aside to cool.

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After the meat had cooled a bit, I picked it over to pull off the gristle and major hunks of fat.  While I was tempted to keep a lot of the fat on and fry it up later, my family and guests are often a bit more squeamish than I, and I figured I'd still get my fat satisfaction from the fat I'd fry the hunks up in later.  

Here's the final product:

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So, what comes next?  Well, I've got a quart of amazing ramen broth that Pierre made, so I'm looking forward to a tasty pork ramen with the family tomorrow night.  The rest of the meat is stashed in three separate containers for future gatherings with friends.  Not surprisingly, I sampled a fair amount as I went, and it's just fantastic.  It's super easy and super satisfying.  My only regret is not having confited another 5-10 lbs of meat at the same time!

Another Great Jamon Party

Despite already having thrown two parties devoted to enjoying our jamon serrano (see: http://www.meatclub.org/fiesta-de-jamon-serrano), and my daughter's and my devoted snacking, I still had the majority of the jamon untouched as of last week.  So, another party, with a lot of people, was required.  And so we had one this past weekend, filled with great food, great friends, and great weather.  Here are a few pictures of before and during the party (with a nice shot of Pepper, perhaps the jamon's greatest booster):

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During the first two parties, we sliced away on the narrower end of the leg, which was drier, less marbled, and perhaps a bit saltier.  For this party, we flipped the leg over and dove into the big, thick, fatty side, and it tasted great.  Still a bit salty, but we had lots of great food a drink to balance it out.  Others who attended can chime in with comments with their own unfiltered opinions.

After everyone left the party, I still had way more meat on the bone than I and my family could consume in the near future.  And, since the leg had already been cut open and at (cool) room temperature for over a month, I decided it was best to cut the remainder off the bone and put the best meat in the fridge for slicing up in upcoming weeks (months?), and save the lesser meat for braises, soups, etc.  Here are a few pictures of the final steps:

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In all, it was fun to make, tasty to eat, and most of all, great fun to share with friends.  Time to get another leg and bury it in salt ....

Prosciutto Harvest

It has been almost exactly 18 months since our prosciutto were born on the Big Pig Day in February, 2010.

Since Jamie recently harvested his own Jamon (not prosciutto) of a slightly longer age with a good deal of success, I deemed it was time to do the same with ours. They weighed in at 21.5 lbs. and 25 lbs. at harvest – essentially no weight change since late 2010. One difference is that his did not have lard layered on the cut end, and ours did.

Jamie chose the Jamon (Spanish) approach to harvesting his using the stand the I threw together from stuff in my shop. He did not have to worry about dividing his beast into shares – opting to consume it slowly (and sharing as he did) by carving thin slices along the way. I had to take the Italian route whereby deboning is done. The Italians usually then leave the deboned leg intact and slice it thinly across the grain of the meat for consumption. I had to divide these into shares.

I really had no idea how to proceed with deboning. Jamie provided me with some you tube links demonstrating the process:

Looks simple and straight forward doesn’t it. Not having quite all the parts laying around in my shop to duplicate the device seen in the videos, I decided to wing it without one.

My first task of course was to remove the lard, and I decided to do this on the picnic table on our back deck. I spread an old bath towel on the table. This turned out to work quite well since it provided at large non-skid surface. Here is how they looked:

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I first scraped the large amounts of lard off with my hands collecting it on paper towels. I actually though about saving some of it, but the outer layers of it appeared to be a little oxidized or rancid. It turns out that working out in the sun was a good idea as the heat loosened and liquefied the remaining lard which I removed with more paper towels and repeated wiping. It took at least 45 minutes to complete this whole process.

Here is how they looked at that point – a nice golden hue to them:

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Closer views of the smaller one:

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And the larger one:

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Now to the deboning. I attacked the smaller one first by attempting to make a cut from the end of the femur bone sticking out in the cut end of the leg and following the bone down toward the shank. What I did not realize is that following that bone is not as easy as it sounds. Remember that there is a knee joint in there somewhere leading to another bone that comes out the shank end. So, after making a deep cut along the “bone line” and realizing I was no longer hitting bone, I tried spreading the cut open to see what was going on. No bone to be seen where I though it would be. I hacked around and found the bone again and eventually the knee/joint, and with more cutting was starting to get the femur to release from the meet and move in the joint. More cutting/hacking along the other bone (tibia-fibula?) coming out of the joint took place. It took me about 30-45 minutes before I finally got both of the bones out and ended up with two large pieces of meat – one in pretty good shape and the other rather hacked up and looking like this (bones in the background):

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On to the other leg. This time I cut the main/larger half of the leg off straight away thinking I could at least preserve it fairly well leaving the other half with the bones in it to be hacked on resulting in two pieces looking like this after the bone removal – another 30 minutes at least (more bones in the background):

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Here are closer looks at the two halves of the second and larger leg after deboning. First the half I cut away right off:

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And the other half where the bones were:

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At this point, I had been at it over two and half hours. I decided to put the cut halves back into the fridge where they had lived for 18 months and attack trimming and cutting into shares in the evening after dinner.

At least now I knew that there were no maggots or other signs of spoilage. Of course I had been tasting scraps resulting from the hacking. They were quite salty, but the underlying flavor was quite good. I knew that when chilled and thinly sliced we had a good product.

Here are the four halves on our kitchen counter that evening (color rendering under the fluorescent lights is not great):

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And closer looks of the smaller leg:

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And the larger leg:

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I trimmed obviously unusable stuff (too dry or funky looking) and cut into pieces (essentially dividing each of these four longitudinally, then into smaller pieces) that could be divided for shares:

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More cutting and dividing into shares by shape and weight as best possible to be equitable led to these piles:

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And finally wrapped in heavy duty foil and back into the fridge in plastic bags/shares:

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I tried to provide each share with one well blocked piece of meat easily suitable for a slicer and two more oddly shaped pieces. I forgot to weigh the net product result, but I estimate it to be between 30 and 35 lbs.  There was weight lost from the lard, bones, trim and just plain waste pieces. Keep in mind that the skin is still on. Before attempting any thin slicing either by hand or machine, trim some of the skin back from the edge of the side that is to be sliced – unless your really want to try eating it along with the slice.

I believe these prosciuttos are more moist that the jamon leg that Jaimie produced. Difference is probably attributable to the lard that was applied as advised way back when by an industry professional that shall remain nameless. In fact, some of you will notice that there are small portions of the blocked cuts (and others) that are not totally dried out or firm. I don’t think that means they are not cured. There is so much salt in this meat that it has to be cured. I doubt that aging for any more time would have made a difference since I could not detect any weight/water loss for many months. So, I am not sure about the wisdom of the lard application. Jamie’s leg had no lard on it, more weight loss, and turned out fine.

I sliced some of a blocked piece of meat on my deli slicer and served it with some Manchego cheese and some Manzanilla sherry before dinner last night. Even thinly sliced, this stuff is mighty salty, but enjoyable. I intend to try some of the oddly shaped stuff cut into small pieces in a frittata with some potatoes and mushrooms for breakfast Sunday morning to see how that works.

This brings to a close our prosciutto journey. Not sure that I would do this again if I ever had a leg at my disposal. A little of this product goes a long way.

Fiesta de Jamon Serrano

The prosciutto I've been curing for the last 18+ months rejected its Italian roots and found its true identity as a Spanish Jamon Serrano.  I expect the change was spurred by the fantastic jamon carving stand that Jim fashioned a few weeks ago -- even though Jim blasphemed and called it a prosciutto carving stand (see: http://www.meatclub.org/basic-prosciutto-carving-stand).

Regardless of terminology and nationality, it was clear that a party was in order.  So, I gathered with a handful of food-loving friends and family and we had a great Spanish-themed dinner on Saturday night with jamon, manchego, chorizo, and a fantastic paella (oh, and lots of wine and spanish cider -- see the last photo).  It was a great night.  

Here are a few pictures of the jamon carving in progress.

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Having waited a year-and-a-half to crack into this leg, I was very excited.  But, having never cured a whole leg before, I was also a bit nervous it would be a flop (or worse, filled with maggots).  Remarkably, it was (and is) fantastic.  It's admittedly a little salty and my carving skills are certainly not that of a master, but it tastes great and is ridiculously fun to carve and share with friends.  

It's now sitting on my kitchen counter at home, waiting for friends and neighbors to come by with a bottle of wine or sidra to partake.  Drop by....

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If you want to see a history of this ham/jamon/proscuitto, see:

http://www.meatclub.org/proscuitto-begins

http://www.meatclub.org/prosciutto-teaser

Basic Prosciutto Carving Stand

Jamie is going to attack his prosciutto in the next couple of weeks. It has been aging/curing in Peter’s facilities for the last eighteen months or more. He is planning to use the Spanish method of putting it on a stand and carving off thin slices. He mentioned that he was going to shop around for a carving stand. I did some searching on the web and found several widely differing designs and examples of stands:

Some of these are VERY expensive – like $400 dollars.

The wooden examples in the first link above looked rather basic and pretty simple to construct if you have the materials and a few tools. So, I decided to make the the stand you see here:

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with another view here:

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and another view here:

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The base of the stand is an old solid oak chopping block that we had laying around. It measures 20x9x2 inches and has four rubber feet on the bottom at the corners. The vertical piece of wood is another piece of solid oak and measures 12.5x5.75x.75 inches. I used a good circle cutter attachment on my drill press to cut a 4 inch diameter hole in one end and then used a band saw to complete the U shaped opening where the shank of the ham will go. The vertical piece of wood is attached to the base with four 3x3 inch corner irons – two on each side (staggered so that the screws from either side don’t smack into each other). The eye bolts in the vertical piece are to hold the shank of the ham. They are 1/4x20 bolts about 3 inches long. Not visible are two threaded brass inserts in the holes where the eye bolts go through the wood so that there is something for them to bite on. The round device on the surface of the base is a 2.5 inch hole saw that has had its back side (the side that normally goes toward the drill when it is mounted to make holes) cut off with a hack saw. I made four cuts about 3/8 inch deep in the base surface where the cutoff hole saw can be moved/adjusted to act as a non-slip grip on the bottom of the ham.

Here is a picture of Jamie’s baby mounted on the stand:

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And another view longitudinally:

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The ham seems stable enough to allow for carving with a good sharp knife. If it is not, I have a couple of ideas for additions to add stabilization.

I had most of the stuff in my precious piles of saved miscellany in my workshop (Can you say packrat?) – wood, corner irons, brass inserts. Just had to buy the eye bolts and the hole saw. The hardest part of the project was cutting the back off of the hole saw after making the four semi-holes in the top of the base. I went through a couple of hacksaw blades doing this.

It remains to be seen how well this will work. Jamie tells me he will probably attack a couple of weeks from now.

Stay tuned.

Prosciutto Teaser

It's been about a 18 months since we salted the prosciuitto described at:

http://www.meatclub.org/proscuitto-begins

Peter has been the custodian for the last year-and-a-half, so he'll have to chime in with any relevant details about the curing conditions.  But, as you can see below, the leg looks fantastic.  And, it smells amazing.  It lost around 44% of its weight.

I'll post more pictures and give more details when I cut into it and taste, but that may be a couple weeks, since I'm on my way out of town (and just sprained my ankle, so unable to wield the beastly hunk o' love with my crutches.).  But, I promise, more to come....

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Dried Spanish Chorizo Complete

It's been just over a month since the spanish chorizo went into the curing chamber (see last post).  Based on weight loss, firmness, and taste, I've concluded that they're done (except for the largest one, which I'm going to give another week or two). 

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The pair of sausages in the hog casings (on the left in the first photo) lost 40% of the their weight, as did the smaller sausage in the beef-middle casing (in the center).  The largest one (on the right) lost 36% of its weight and still has a little "squish" to it when I squeeze, so I'm going to let it ride a little longer.  I'm also doing this because having cut open and tasted the small diameter sausages with 40% loss, I've found that they're still plenty moist to cut and in the mouth, so I'm not worried about letting the largest one lose more moisture weight.  Regarding curing chamber conditions, temperature hovered in the mid 50s and humidity started up around 80%+ and ramped down to 65%-70%.

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As for flavor: fantastic!  Very rich, no off-flavors, good bind, and several layers of the various paprikas, garlic, etc.  These will be great on their own with a good beer (or perhaps some Asturian cider....) and also as an ingredient in cooking.  Of course, if Tim gets near, they may disappear quickly.

Spanish Chorizo: Fresh & Cured (and Tasty!!!)

I cranked out two batches of spanish chorizo this weekend -- one cured and one fresh.  Here they both are after stuffing (the batch of small links are the fresh, and the group of two large and one pair are for curing):

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Eager to jump at my wife's suggestion to make a batch of fabada, I took a few of the fresh links, some cured pork belly, and a big smoked hock, and made a very tasty pot of fabada (albeit lacking in the morcilla (blood sausage)).  In honor of Duncan & Elsa and Joaquin & Coro and Aitana:

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And now, just out of the fermentation chamber and into the curing chamber, are the cured chorizo. I decided to inoculate them with the m-600 white mold before going into the fermentation chamber, to foster the growth of the good stuff and avoid the growth of the bad stuff.  Seems like it worked like a charm:

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So far so good!  More later.....

Better Biltong

I gave biltong a second try with a better cut of meat, in an attempt to make it more authentic (and tastier).  I used a 3-pound eye-of-round (same cut as often used for bresaola), and cut it into three 3/4" slabs running with the grain.

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Then, I dipped them in cider vinegar, added the spices (toasted corriander seeds, brown sugar, salt, and black pepper), and put them in the dehydrator.  It's been about a week since I actually did this, so don't recall the exact times and temperature, but I think I let it run for about two days at around 120F degrees (with the idea of low and slow, compared to my last approach with the thinner strips).  Here's what came out:

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It felt pretty good on the outside, but the inside was still quite moist, and I was concerned that it might spoil.  It also looked a little too moist/rare when I compared the interior to lots of biltong images online.  So, back into the dehydrator for another day, and at a higher temperature (150ish, I think).  Here's the final product:
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I need a south african to drop by to taste it and confirm, but I think it's done.  It tastes great (and gives a good jaw workout).  

Finocchiona Finale

Below are a couple of pictures of the completed Spicy Finocchiona (to see prior posts, click on tag on sidebar of "finocchiona").  The salami were done curing over a month ago, but I just never got around to posting. 

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In all, these are the best salami I've yet made.  Good taste, good spice, and good texture.  One interesting thing was that I originally pulled them from the curing chamber when the weight loss was around 33-35%.  But, I felt that the one I cut into was still too mushy and unconsolidated, so I let them dry for another few weeks until the total weight lost was around 40%, which I think improved them.  Also, my fat content was a bit too high on these, so next time I'll fix the ratio.  But, in all, a solid success.